Today, it’s all about the seating. My living room furniture is the most poverty stricken area in my house with the exception of the bathtub with the missing faucet. I have been looking forward to exploring what can be done about it ever since the beginning of this particular project.

When we cleaned out our closets, I got really excited about all the cool stuff that could be done with blue jeans, and it occurred to me that it would be really fun to recover my sofa and chair with old blue jeans. For example:

Pretty cool, huh? And, sadly, it’s going to be complicated… and require courage, a sewing machine, plus a learning curve of unknown proportions. But it’s something that I want to try to do, so with that in mind, here are a variety of tutorials on how to recover sofas and chairs.

Let’s start with the easy stuff first. There are a number of tutorials for covering sofas and chairs with drop cloths. The biggest expense here is the drop cloth. On the up side, drop clothes can be dyed in a variety of cool ways, and if you were so inclined, you could even make curtains to match. Doesn’t look too difficult.

The simplest way is to just do a simple cover up by tossing the drop cloth over the couch. Voila! Even better if it has been dyed and decorated and looks super cool. The following tutorial is from Home Talk, and it shows how to stencil and dye a drop cloth to make curtains. I don’t see why this method couldn’t also be used on a throw for your couch.

Stencil and Dye Your Own Drop Cloth Curtain

We take a look at a wonderful DIY project by Stephanie Jones. She shares how she took a regular canvas drop cloth and gave it some stenciled style and color with Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan. She says: “I wanted to add a little softness, warmth and boho pizazz to a less-than-lovely window at our studio.”

Stephanie started by washing and drying her 4×15 canvas drop cloth. You can easily find one at your local hardware store. This step helped soften up the fabric, which allowed it to more easily take the Chalk Paint dye she would use later on.

Using Old White Chalk Paint, a roller and a large Moroccan-inspired stencil, Stephanie, along with her team of helpers, stenciled an allover pattern onto the drop cloth. To help everything stay in place as they worked, they smoothed the drop cloth onto a flattened-out box that had been spritzed with low-tack adhesive.

“To avoid seepage, don’t forget to off-load excess paint from the roller onto folded paper towels before rolling,” notes Stephanie.

Since the look she was going for was a bit faded, she chose to stencil before dyeing; however, if you’re looking for a crisper, brighter look, you’ll want to stencil after dyeing.

Next, she mixed Florence Chalk Paint® with a little bit of Provence Chalk Paint® and poured it into a large plastic tub filled with water. Stephanie used a mix ratio of 1 part paint to 20 parts water and let the loosely bunched drop cloth soak for about an hour.

Once finished soaking, Stephanie hung the drop cloth on a clothesline outside to drip-dry overnight. She then used a steam iron to soften it.

When all was dry and ready to hang, Stephanie draped the finished drop cloth over a plumbing-pipe curtain rod and scooted it to the side to hide an awkward corner in her studio. Voilà – hardware store chic!

If you don’t like that loose look, or if you’re already covering up your sofa like this, and want something a little more permanent looking, here’s a tutorial on how to make a loosely fitted slip cover (once again using a drop cloth).

Cover A Sofa With No Sew Drop Cloths

Here’s a simple tutorial from A Beach Cottage:

• Buy the biggest drop cloths you can find and then cut them up, you get more bang for your buck this way
• Take all the cushions that you can off of the sofa
• Lay your drop cloth over the sofa seat area only and roughly estimate what’s the best way to cut the drop cloth fabric to best fit the seat area of the sofa double folded and with a big enough overhang to tuck and fold into the crevices of the sofa

For example: With the drop cloth I had I simply folded it down the middle and cut it in half giving me two pieces of double folded fabric

Important note: You want the fabric double folded because a single piece of fabric will slip around much more (ask me how I know this or ask a Beach Cottage kiddo if they sat on a sofa with a single piece of drop cloth and promptly the whole lot slid to the floor)

The amount of fabric you have to tuck in is key to it not slipping and sliding around when you actually want to sit on the thing.

• Cut your fabric – don’t worry about edging you won’t see that
• Fold your drop cloth piece so it is double folded, lay it on a table or floor and smooth it out and line up the edges…trust me do this bit.
• Lay this piece of fabric over the seat of the sofa, smooth, smooth, smooth
• Push and tuck, push and tuck- all the over-hang fabric needs to be squeezed tightly into the crevices of the sofa.

Note: this tight pushing and squeezing is what will stop the ‘cover’ slipping around and falling off when you sit on it

• Lay the other piece of fabric out and put the cushions on it, now wrap up the cushions like a parcel, leaving the bottom of the cushions with the opening of the fabric
• Place cushions on the sofa and then put your hands underneath and again squeeze and push the excess fabric in tightly so the fabric won’t move around too much when you sit down.
• Add texture to the arms of the sofa with crochet, knit or stripe, smooth and tuck this tightly into the sofa too
• Add lots of pillows and cushions in different shapes and patterns for interest and depth.

Your couch or chair will look better, and hold up longer under normal wear and tear if you put the cushions on top of the couch cover. Like this one from In My Own Style:

You can also add ties at the arms to give a more finished look. I don’t think it would be too hard to figure out how to add the ties, and the cushion covers are pretty easy too. The ones in the picture are made from a bed spread, and tied underneath.

• Here’s what she had to say about the cushions

“I am all about easy and a believer in what you can’t see can easily be faked. I found white quilts on clearance at the store I used to work at. I used them to make cushion covers. I sewed covers for the bottom cushions that are semi – boxed covers that are tied on with ribbon on the bottom.”

“Here is the underside of the cushion. The cover is more like a gently fitted wrap around cover. You can see I had to really scrimp on the amount of quilt fabric I had. I was determined to make it work. It is uneven, but no one sees it. I used these same covers with the old slipcovers I had on this sofa/chair. I have washed them many times and the ribbons and uneven edges don’t matter one bit.”

Alternatively, you could also make a “couch wrap.” This is a cool idea and a great way to keep a loose couch covering in place and looking good.

This is really super simple. The hardest part will be to figure out what to use for the heaver covering. Here’s a visual tutorial:

Keeping that pesky slip cover tucked in:

To keep a one-piece slipcover from moving and getting un-tucked, push cardboard tubes into the crevices to hold the extra fabric down. Here I used a long tube that fabric came on and a tube from a roll of foil. Both are more rigid than a paper towel tube. You may have to use different size tubes depending on how big your crevices are.

Push the tubes back into the crevice as far as they will go. If slippage is still a problem, you can wrap rubber bands around the tubes. The rubber helps to keep the fabric from slipping. You could also use PVC pipe.

To hold pleats in place or any part of the slipcover that won’t stay the way you want it – use twist pins. You can find them at any sewing store or online. These are clear plastic, but they also come in decorative shapes and finishes that look like nail-heads.

You just screw it into the pleat or fabric you want to stay in place.

If you have a small couch and a large fitted sheet, you could opt for this method. I like how simple it looks, and after a bit of research, I realize that it’s actually a stretchy pre-made couch cover. 🙁

That being said, I don’t see why a person couldn’t use a stretchy knit fabric, or even a sturdy fitted sheet and do the same thing. It would probably work even better if the bottom cushions were on top of the couch cover.

If you like this tailored look, you could make a fitted slip cover yourself. I have a great tutorial for that as well. It’s from Maggie Overby Studios.

A Blue Velvet Sofa!

It is no secret that I have a thing for blue velvet sofas. I have been drooling over them for a while now but guess what? I finally got my own, well sort of…

My blue velvet sofa is actually an Ikea Hack!

Here is what I started with, my 8-year-old mid-century style sofa with brown tweed upholstery. I love the straight lines of this sofa but what was I thinking buying a brown sofa? Oh yeah, that was 8 years ago when I had small children with grubby hands… Now I have big children with grubby hands but at least they understand when I say not to eat on the sofa. (If only I could get them to listen.)

After hemming a pair Ikea SANELA curtains for a client I had a bit of fabric left over, and I got the idea that this pretty blue velvety fabric might just work on my sofa.  I ran a piece of scrap through the washing machine and was pleasantly surprised to find it washed beautifully.

I’m sure your thinking why didn’t I just buy velvet fabric? Well, nice velvet is very expensive and the inexpensive options usually have a shine to them that just looks cheap. Also the nicer silk and cotton velvet (velveteen), needs to be dry cleaned. These curtains were machine washable, exactly what I needed.

So my blue velvet sofa is actually a slipcover made from curtains in dark turquoise. They cost only $70 for two 55″x 118″panels, minus the grommet tops one pack gives you over six yards of beautiful velvety fabric. For my slipcover I used four panels (two packages) and had quite a bit of fabric left over.

When I started working with the fabric I also noticed that it has a bit of stretch to it, perfect for the tight-fitting slipcover I was looking to make.

This is not a slipcover sewing tutorial but I will give you a few personal pointers if you are considering sewing our own but have never sewn a slipcover before.

1. When fitting your slipcover, pin you fabric on the sofa inside out ( I like a tight upholstered look so I pin mine tightly.) Once pinned remove the slipcover and sew right along the pin line, removing the pins as you go. I do this in sections and keep adding on, usually taking the slipcover on and off several times as I sew.

Since I was using curtains I tried to take advantage of the hemmed edges. I ran the finished edges of the curtains along the bottom of the sofa it saved me the step of hemming the slipcover at the end.

If you want to take an extra step towards an upholstered look, add a strip of Velcro along the bottom edge of your sofa and slipcover so you can tuck the edges under for a tight fit.

This last tip is specifically for sewing velvet. Watch that you keep the direction of the velvet going in the same way whenever possible. Velvet will look dark in one direction and lighter in another. If you are not careful you may have one cushion looking like it is a different color than the rest.

The end results look like this… After a days work and $140 investment in fabric, I have my very own blue velvet sofa. Add few new pillow covers and I have a whole new look.

This seems like a fair amount of work, and would require a sewing machine, and I thought it might be fun to share a vision of the possibilities:

Ok, yes, that chair isn’t covered with a slip cover, but I think a person could make one that was similar. But what if your couch or your chair is a total mess and needs to actually be reupholstered? Then what? Well, if a trip to Craig’s List isn’t in your future, or if you’ve always wanted to know how to reupholster a couch or chair… hang on to your hats, because I have a tutorial.

It probably isn’t as hard as it looks. But it does have a certain fear factor, and I’m sure there’s a learning curve. So, before I share the tutorial, I’m going to share a gallery of some super cool upholstered couches and chairs. Hopefully this will get us over the hump and inspired to take on a challenge.

I love these, and with my idea for a blue jean covered couch in mind, I thought I might figure out what size the individual pieces would need to be, and then sew blue jean pieces and parts into appropriately sized squares of “upholstery” material. Here’s an example of what it might look like:

So, are we ready for the tutorial? I’m sure it’s way easier than it looks. The scariest part is that you have to take your furniture down to the bare bones… After that it’s just a matter of measuring, cutting, layering, and attaching it. Here’s a step by step tutorial from Do It Yourself Divas.

DIY Strip Fabric From A Couch and Reupholster It

I don’t exactly have $$ right now to buy the couch of my dreams, but lucky for me, my husband and I were able to reupholster this beauty. We found a living room set that included a large sofa, love seat, chair and a half, and an ottoman for $50. Engineer hubby and I totally transformed the sofa AND an ottoman for $200. We are going to go through the steps of stripping the fabric off of the couch and reupholstering the couch.

This proves that almost anything can become something new.

Use your imagination when finding the right couch.  The diamond in the rough is usually really rough at first. So, look past dingy, pastel colored, floral fabrics and look at the general shape and structure of the piece to find the right candidate for reupholstering. Here are some things to consider when looking for the right couch:

Step back and look at the couch to determine how many “sections” you will be reupholstering. The “visible” sections for my couch were arms, back of back rest, front of back rest, sides (under arms), front bottom, pillows, and cushions. There were two “hidden” sections which included under the couch and under the seat cushions.

Typical upholstery fabric is sold on a large bolt that is about 54″ wide.  Knowing this may help you estimate how much fabric you will need per section.

• Cost to reupholster.  

A sofa can take anywhere between 12-20 yards of fabric depending on its size and shape. Keep that in mind when choosing fabric; things can get pricey. We used 16 yards on our couch.

• Is the structure sound?

Can I reuse the tack strips or any upholstery hardware? Will the feet need to be replaced or renovated? Are the foam cushions worn out or do they have plenty of body left? Is this couch more comfortable than a $200 couch I could buy new? Will any odors remain once the fabric and batting have been removed?

Our couch was easy to reupholster because the seat cushions and the pillows were detached. I imagine it would be harder to reupholster a couch that had cushions and pillows sewn onto the body of the couch, but I’m sure it can be done with a little determination.

You will need:

• Couch
• Heavy Duty Upholstery Fabric
• Inexpensive fabric to use in “unseen” places, i.e. muslin
• Staple Gun/ Staples
• Cereal Box Cardboard (we will explain later)
• Batting
• Spray Glue
• Zippers, thread, or anything else needed to sew cushion covers
• Any replacement items for worn out material, i.e. foam or feet
• Pliers
• Hammer
• Sewing Machine or a friend who has one
• Fabric Scissors (hands down, the best fabric scissors.)
• Measuring Tape
• Any other job specific tools

Here’s the criteria we used to find the right fabric…

No continuous pattern.  Patterns, such as stripes, can be difficult to line up during reupholstering and may require more material to make patterns align.

Fabric with a sturdy weave.  This may go without saying, but make sure to get a durable fabric that is meant for furniture if you want your legacy to last.

How much? Remember the sections I talked about? Measure the length of each section and add a few inches extra on each end so you have enough fabric to work with. It would be bad to not have enough, so measure a little generously. We didn’t have to worry about the width since 54″ wide fabric fit each section on our couch perfectly. As I mentioned above, we used 16 yards on our large sofa.

• Price point.  

We are on a budget and the fabric had to fit within that budget, so we didn’t waste time looking at fabric above a certain price point.  Our fabric was about $9 a yard.

Strip it down

Unfortunately I didn’t take a picture of the fabric on the sofa before is was ripped off. Hubby was anxious to get going and started ripping off fabric, batting, and foam, so to give you an idea of what it looked like with it’s original fabric, here is the love seat.

Here is the sofa all stripped down with the seat cushions and pillows set aside.  Engineer hubby ripped off the fabric, the batting from the whole couch which he thought was holding in all the odors. He also removed the foam from the arms.  When we realized that foam is really expensive, we salvaged the original foam and “Lysol-ed” it liberally 😉 All that remained of the couch when we were done stripping it, was the wood structure, cardboard on the arms, springs, the blue mesh material covering the springs, foam (foam not pictured), and metal tack strips.

In our case, the next step was to put the foam back on the arms. Foam only covered the front, sides, and tops of the arms. Sadly, I don’t have a picture of this so just use your imagination. I did however attach a photo of a roll of foam you can purchase. It’s called High Density Urethane Foam 1″x24″x30″.

Remember, any staple dimples or irregular shapes in the foam may show through when you cover it with new batting and fabric, so use spray glue on the back and try to staple it nice and evenly on the edges.

New batting stapled into place. You will notice some dimples caused by the staples, but these were not too severe and were easily smoothed out once the fabric was stretched over it. We used about 3 packages of 8oz batting that had been pre-cut for a queen size quilt. (10oz would have been better but it wasn’t in stock). You can buy it at Walmart.

Roughly cut it into pieces that cover each section of the couch. Sections meaning, front of arms, around each arm, front of couch, and back of couch. Just go for it, it doesn’t have to be perfect.

Notice the feet have been removed. Also notice all the yucky stuff that came out of the couch when it was stripped. Among the “treasure” was 75 cents, “the lost sock”, cocoa puffs, the top hat from a Monopoly game, and much more.

We first attached muslin over the seat cushion springs/base (see finished product below).

Locate areas on the frame of the couch where you can staple the muslin. Cut muslin to fit.  Be generous and give yourself plenty of fabric to work with.

Use the cardboard trick, described two paragraphs below, along the front edge of the couch in order to hide staples and give a uniform edge.

Fold the muslin over the stapled cardboard strip and tuck under the arm and back.

Pull the muslin tight and staple to the frame. You will be working under the couch at this point in order to staple the muslin to the frame.

Drape a large piece of fabric over the arm of the couch and staple in the joint. Notice how we have a lot of extra fabric hanging off the front and back of the arm. That fabric will be folded into a fan later on.

Use the cardboard trick to attach the fabric to the front of the couch. The cardboard makes it so you don’t see any staples and you will see how.

• Place the fabric “right side” to the muslin and a couple inches away from the edge of the couch.
• Cut a few strips of cardboard (cereal boxes work great) about 1/2″ wide and as long as the couch goes.
• Staple through the cardboard and the edge of the fabric into the wood frame.

Flip the fabric over and you have a nice, clean, finished look for the front part of your couch.

Staple the fabric to the bottom. Wrap and staple the fabric around the sides of the couch about 5 inches.

Notice the front bottom piece. It is tightly secured with staples, no raw edges showing. The back fabric piece is just draped over the back for fun at this point; the next step is to work on the arms again.

Arms. This is the trickiest part.

• Start from the outside of the arm and work your way up, around, and down creating small folds.
• Staple as you go; you can always pull the staples out and readjust.
• When you get close to the end, fold the fabric under to give it a clean finish and staple in place.
• Don’t staple on the front of the couch, just pull the fabric tight and staple it in place on the sides of the couch.
• The fold at the bottom of the arm should cover the fold you made earlier on the front bottom piece.

Trim away bulky fabric as needed. Notice where we stapled. All these staples will be covered by the side fabric piece.

Move to the back of the arm and follow the same process creating a fan with the extra fabric.

We applied a little bit of super glue behind the small fan folds to keep them in place. So far so good four months and three kids later!

Here is an overview of what you will be doing to attach the side piece. Notice the order.

• First, use the cardboard trick to attach fabric under the arm curve.
• Second, staple fabric around the back of the couch and staple in place.
• Third, use a tack strip to secure fabric in place on opposite side. This little strip of metal allows us to create a finished edge much like the cardboard trick.
• Along the edge, push tack strip through the back of the fabric.

Fold it over so that the back of the tack strip is against the back of the fabric.

Hammer the fabric and tack strip into place along the side. Wrap and staple bottom edge of fabric onto the couch.

This is what the side should look like finished.

Attach fabric to the “front” of the back rest.

• Use cardboard trick to staple fabric in place along the top of the back frame.
• Flip fabric over to the front of the couch, pull it tight, tuck in bottom, and staple to frame. Make sure the “right side” of your fabric is showing once you flip it over.
• Fold under raw edges on the sides and staple to frame from behind the couch.

Add back piece.

• Use the cardboard trick along to top of the back. Flip fabric over.
• Begin working on the bottom.
• Wrap bottom fabric under couch and staple. The staples under the couch will be covered by muslin later.
• Then work on the sides of the back piece using tack strips. All staples should be hidden.

Here is a closer view of the back rest so you can see more clearly what we did and where we used the cardboard trick. Notice that the “front” back piece actually wraps over the top and down the back of the couch a few inches. Then the “back” back piece is stapled on top of the “front” back piece.

Attach the muslin to the “unseen” underside of the couch. No need to make it look pretty. Just cut a piece to fit the bottom and just staple it on. Start on one side and work your way around. Then attach the feet.

Here are the feet Engineer Hubby designed and made since we didn’t like the original feet. We really liked the blonde look, but you could always stain them.

We added the center block for extra support.

Wrap cushions in new batting as pictured.

Use spray glue to secure the batting to the foam cushion. Now for the cushion cover… I used THIS tutorial.

How to Make a Cushion Cover

Start with these four pieces:

• The two main pieces-top and bottom of cushion
• The middle band
• The zipper piece you created from this zipper tutorial

To get your top and bottom of your cushion, set your actual couch cushion on top of the fabric you want to use and trace around it with a fabric pen. Then cut it out, about a 1/2-1″ out from the line you drew (for your seam allowance and piping.) Cut two.

Note: If you are tracing an asymmetrical piece you will need to make sure that you keep the RIGHT sides opposite. To sew piping onto your fabric, follow this piping tutorial. The middle band you create by measuring the height of the cushion (for the width) and the perimeter around, minus the zipper length. Give yourself several (like 5-6) extra inches tacked onto the perimeter.

I’m not going to share the whole tutorial here, but I think this will give a basic idea of how to do it. The full tutorial can be found at Honey Bear Lane.

The finished product looked like this:

Make Pillow Covers.

I made simple envelope pillow covers so I didn’t have to sew on a zipper. I used  this tutorial from Make It Love It.

I didn’t want the corners of my pillows to poke out, so I just sewed them down into the form.

All done! I promise this look isn’t too hard to achieve. Just have patience and always over estimate on your fabric so you have enough.

Wowsers! Well, if that looks too complicated, you could always knit something!

Knitted upholstery !!

Your cat will love it, I promise! LOL! Here are some more knitted sofa and chair covers just for fun:

Or You Could Just Paint It!

Here’s a video about how to paint a velvet sofa and keep it soft! If your sofa or chair is in decent shape, and still comfortable, maybe this is a viable option!

And yes… it’s true! You really can paint your upholstered furniture!

Painting velvet requires more patience than painting other fabrics. Maison Decor gave the chairs three coats of paint. They watered down the paint slightly by using a wet brush and spritzing the velvet lightly with a water bottle mister. Watering down the paint helped it spread evenly. Amy explains that watering also kept the fabric from soaking up too much paint, which can lead to cracking.

“The nap of the velvet needs to have the paint worked into it, but not so as to disturb the way it lies,” Amy adds.

Following the three coats of paint, with drying time in between coats, Amy and her team sanded the surface with 600 grit sandpaper, which helped restore the fabric’s smooth feel. Then they waxed the upholstery, which created a smoother finish and protected the chairs.

Amy explains that she used a 50/50 mix of Annie Sloan’s Soft Clear Wax and odorless mineral spirits, and applied the mixture with a wax brush. They waxed in the direction of the nap, wiping away excess. The key element was allowing the wax to dry completely, which required three weeks.

As for people skeptical of sitting on waxed velvet, Amy assuages any fears. “Often people ask, can you sit on a waxed chair? Won’t it come off on your bottom? The answer is no!” She attests, “In our house we have a pair of painted and waxed chairs in our dining room, and it’s been two years now of daily use with no wearing off of paint or wax. Now that’s something I can feel comfortable recommending to everyone.”

Ok… I think that’s about enough of that!

The Ultimate Guide to Window Treatments

Whatever style of home you have, windows are one of the first things you notice and the way you treat your windows creates an ambiance which enhances your particular style. Window treatments are simply swaths of material, arranged or draped or pleated over an opening to the outside, a space waiting for you to unwrap!

• Creative Window Treatment Ideas

The sky is the limit with how creative you can get with your window coverings. Literally put any design you want on a shade—a photograph, a logo, or your art. A print-on –demand program provides you this outlet for a totally personalized shade that creates a memorable picture from your own photograph gallery, or design a menu or logo or capture any moment in time to view everyday.

Here are some ideas using ribbons and scarves:

If you’re the DIY type, you can get cracking at your own stitched or no-sew drapes or roman shades. Add ribbons, cloth tapes, iron on hems, bows, ruffles, contrasting fabric with trim or sew together vintage scarves, tablecloths, napkins or stencil away with your favorite shapes. Your imagination is only a shade away.

• Elegant Window Treatment Ideas

To achieve a graceful look on windows usually starts with your fabric choice. Roman shades and drapery are a no-brainer here. Softness, layers and deep, decadent folds are the key.

Oversize drapes that hang floor to ceiling are particularly elegant since they make your room appear to have higher ceilings. You can also easily add a shade behind the drapes to give the layered effect. Bonus points: use different textures and colors on the layers and your elegance factor shoots up.

• Unique Window Treatment Ideas 

It’s time to get out of the boring blind and shade funk of thinking you can only do a neutral, blah window covering. Get unique and think top down bottom up shades that let you decide when and how much light to let in from above and below the shade.

Check these out:

For unique drapery ideas, I suggest holdbacks, jabot corners, drapery swags or dual material drapes either in color-blocking or wide stripes. Or, if you want off the beaten path blinds, think mirrored, etched glass, leather (yes, really) bulletproof (yes, also, really), or have any design your heart desires printed on a shade.

You can also use blinds and shades in other places besides the window. Think room dividers, inside awnings in alcoves, canopies around beds and focal points behind headboards.

• Inexpensive Window Treatment Ideas

Window treatments don’t need to leave your pockets empty with no change for your morning latte. Lots of inexpensive choices can perk up any room with a little knowledge and ingenuity. Mini blinds are a popular and reasonably priced option. Mini blinds are easy to install and are available in endless colors and textures and are often the first choice for many of us who want a “no nonsense “ window treatment, simple, plain and goes with everything.

Vertical blinds are another economical choice, but offer a bit more variety. For a traditional, clean look, roller shades fit the bill. They are usually made from vinyl or polyester fabric, come in various patterns and colors. I call these, “rollers”, as they are simple window treatment and you don’t have to be “rolling in money” to afford them. If you are looking for a more modern look for your home, try cellular shades.

For those with a do-it-yourself attitude, get your sewing machine, staple gun, and fabric ready. Make easy, inexpensive curtains with your favorite fabric (a sheet, YES, I did say that, or a tablecloth offers more whimsy). Just measure and hem one end big enough for a drapery rod.

Decorative window film looks especially hip on paneled windows and doors and is perfect for renters or those who like to redecorate their space often, since the film can easily peel off if needed. Voila! You now have custom and inexpensive window treatments that are uniquely you.

Your window treatments do not need to have a cookie cutter look. Add your own style and be creative with curtain rods, tie backs, and valances. These little finishing touches can make your windows quirky or quiet.

A Look At Window Treatments:

Window treatments are divided in 3 categories:

1. Hard window treatments are made of hard materials like wood or vinyl. Such as: shades, blinds and shutters.
2. Soft window treatments: anything made of soft materials such as: sheers, curtains, drapes, swags, valances, roman shades – from flat to hobbled styles.
3. A combination of both is called a layered window treatment.

Treatments applied to directly to the glass include:

• Frosted glass
• Smart glass
• Stained glass

When looking at the different types of window treatments, remember that child-safe features including cordless and motorized operation are available for all categories.

Before you make a choice about which window treatment to use, consider what you will be doing in each given room. Whether you are sleeping, playing or cooking, you can customize your shade to match your style and provide all of the functions you need.

• Austrian shades

Fabric shade that is gathered in scallops when down and pulls into tighter scallops when raised. It has a touch of luxury. Can be made out of different materials including sheer fabric.

• Beaded Curtains

For a colorful hippie style look, beaded curtains are a great way to dress up a small window. Made from beads of all shapes, sizes, and materials, beaded curtains are simple to make and will add artistry to your room. They can get pretty expensive to buy, however. Luckily, they are fairly easy to make. Best of all, you can customize your curtains by choosing what color, size, and shape the beads are. You can even choose what material they are made out of!

How to make a beaded curtain:

Here is a nice little tutorial from WikiHow. It starts with a how to on making your own curtain rod. I’m going to assume that we can figure that part out.

You will need:

• Fishing line, or something to thread your beads onto. Fishing line is nice because it is clear, sturdy, and easy to use.
• Scissors
• Measuring tape
• Beads – lots and lots of beads
• Rings to hang the strands of beading on.
• Curtain rod and related hardware

Alternatively, you could drill holes in a yardstick size piece of wood. Either way, you’ll need something to hang your strands of beads on. In which case, you will not need the rings. Here’s a visual on how that works:

If you are using a curtain rod, hang the curtain rod first. Hanging the rod before you bead will allow you to determine how long your curtains will be. It will also keep the strands from getting tangled while you work on them.

Measure and cut your fishing line.

Measure how long you want your curtains to be, starting from the top of the curtain rod. Double your measurement and add 12 inches to it. Cut your fishing line accordingly. You are cutting your fishing line twice as long because you will be folding it in half and inserting two strands inside each bead. The extra 12 inches will allow you to finish off the curtains.

Cut and work on one strand at a time. If you cut too many strands at once, the fishing line may turn into a tangled mess.

If you don’t have any fishing line, you can also try using strong, sturdy thread, colored string, or even wire. Whatever you decide to use, make sure that it is thin enough to go through your beads.

Tie the fishing line to a ring.

Find the center of your fishing line, then slip it through the ring. Tie 2 to 3 knots beneath the ring to keep the fishing line secure; you can also use a slipknot instead. Make sure that the fishing line is centered, and that both strands are the same length.

Work on one ring at a time. Hang each ring onto the rod as soon as you finish it.

Note: If you are opting for the alternative method, the strand of beads will be attached to the wood hangar last instead of first.

String on one bead at one end. This will be the last bead of your first strand. Make multiple loops through the hole of the bead and tie a knot to secure it. Start your first strand.

In case you’re wondering, this is the finished beaded curtain in the alternative method. She uses large wooden beads of various shapes and colors, with rings at the end.

Get some beads.

You will needs lots of beads, more than you think you’d need. They don’t all have to be fancy glass beads; they can be plastic, wood, or even homemade. You could even take apart costume jewelry, and use the beads from that. The funkier the beads are, the better!

Colored glass beads are wonderful for this project because they are translucent and catch the light well. If you are using colored string, consider using clear beads for a cool effect.

Consider getting some 2-hole beads for the end of your curtain strands. You will one 2-hole bead for each strand.

Start stringing your beads.

Take your first bead, and thread it onto the fishing line. Make sure that you are putting the bead through both strands of fishing line. Pull the bead all the way down to the split ring, and add the next. Keep doing this until you have about 12 inches of string left.

Your beads don’t all have to be the same size. Play around with different patterns. For example, you could use mostly small beads on your curtain, and use a large, chunky bead every couple of inches/centimeters.

Add a 2-hole bead at the end.

This time, put one strand of fishing line through each hole, and tie them together. Tie about 3 knots under the bead, then bring the ends of the fishing line back through the holes. Thread the strands back through the first couple of beads, then trim them off.

If you do not have any 2-hole beads, use a larger bead instead. Turn the bead so that the holes are pointing to the side instead of up-and-down. Take one strand of fishing line, and pull it through the left hole. Take the other strand of fishing line, and pull it through the right hole. Tie the knots above the bead.

If you are using the alternative method, tie the beads to the wood, loop the excess open end of the fishing line around the wood four or five times. Make a knot between the wood and the first bead. If you used precut holes in your wooden hangar, run the fishing line up through the holes, like you would with the last bead, one through one side, and one through the other, and then tie them off.

Tying the knots.

Consider placing a drop of superglue over the knot. This will make it stronger and less-likely to slip. Now run your excess fishing wire back through 4 or 5 beads and snip to make it disappear.

The knots are the trickiest part, especially when they are at the bottom of your strand. Here are a couple of pics to help visualize how to tie them:

Hang the beaded strands.

Hang the strand on the curtain, and start on the next one. It may sound like a lot of work, constantly getting up and sliding the ring onto your curtain rod, but it will help keep your work from getting tangled.

If you are using the alternative method of tying the strands to a wooden hangar, you will need to be careful and organized to ensure that the strands do not get into a tangled mess. Working on a table with a thick fabric (like a towel) underneath will help.

Design elements

Play with symmetry and figure out your pattern. If you plan on making a ∧ or a ∨ shape, making 2 strands at a time in the same length is more time efficient, and can be very helpful if you want to make sure the lengths match.

Finishing it up

Continue cutting and beading your strands until you have as many as you like on your curtain rod. They do not all have to be the same length, but remember to add 12 inches to each strand so that you can finish it off properly. A great idea would be to make your curtains a angle upwards in ^ shape.

Hang the curtain rod in place. Make adjustments as needed to ensure that the curtain is hanging evenly. If you used glass beads, the light behind the curtain will catch the colors of the beads and make them glow—just like a suncatcher.

If you used the alternative method: After moving your strands to the desired spacing, hot glue another piece of wood exactly on top of the panel. The final width for this project was 16 inches wide so the 13 strands were all a little over an inch apart.

Once you get the hang of it, you could add beaded curtains to just about any door or window in your home!

Tips and Tricks

You will need a lot of beads for this project, but keep in mind, the bigger the beads and longer the strands, the heavier the curtain will be.

Take apart jewelry you are not wearing for some fun nostalgic pops, find strands of beads at thrift stores, or look through your grandmother’s jewelry chest.

I really loved this idea, and found a bunch of images and ideas… here they are:

And even better… we are not limited to beads. I also found this cool idea for using old CD’s:

And also some ideas featuring pom poms, wine corks, ribbons, and more:

But wait, there’s more! Here’s a nifty tutorial for making beads out of paper for a really inexpensive, albeit time consuming beaded curtain:

Ok, that’s enough of that!

• Café curtains

These are straight curtains hung from rings that slide along a rod. May cover the lower portion of the window or the entire window. It is great when you need to allow lots of sight into the room while keeping lower part of the room (above dining table, or in the bedroom) private.

They are very easy to make. Here’s a short tutorial for cafe curtains:

Time: 15 Minutes
Cost: $5.00
Difficulty: Easy

Since I was going to Ikea anyway, I picked up 6 extra of my favorite dishtowels, and had my mom whip up 2 panels using 3 tea towels for each panel. Add to the top a one inch rod pocket and I had some rustic, casual cafe curtains!

• Cellular shades

Cellular shades are the best insulators of all energy-efficient window treatments. They get their name and insulating properties from their fabric honeycomb cells that trap air between the window and the room. This unique design maximizes energy efficiency and insulates your home .This results in heat gain in the winter and heat loss in the summer.

Cellular shades come in single cell, double cell, and triple cell. They also offer different levels of light control from light filtering to blackout. Unlike window blinds which are made of hard materials, they are made of a soft paper- or cloth-like materials. Typically spun lace and bonded polyester are used, but other fabrics can be used during the manufacturing process.

For insulation and energy efficiency, cellular (honeycomb) shades, with their little pockets of cells (think beehive and honey) keep your temperature serene. All of those little pockets trap air and help keep the heat out in the summer and the warmth in during the winter. Those bees are smart little hummers!

Available in every possible color, they’re an ideal fit for most rooms and the cordless options make them great for families with kids or pets. Top down bottom up features are a must have option for maintaining privacy while still letting light stream in.

• Drapery

Drapery adds style and elegance to your home while also providing functional light control and privacy. Panels hang vertically from hardware at the top to your desired window treatment length.

Also referred to as curtains, can be used to create an elegant, casual or a sophisticated look. May draw across the rod or remain stationary on either or both sides of the window. Curtains come in a variety of shapes, materials, sizes, colors and patterns, and they often have their own sections within department stores, while some shops are completely dedicated to selling curtains.

Curtains vary according to clean-ability, ultraviolet light deterioration, oil and dust retention, noise absorption, fire resistance, and life span. Curtains may be moved by hand, with cords, by press-button pads or remote-controlled computers. Measuring curtain sizes needed for each window varies greatly according to the type of curtain needed, window size, and type and weight of curtain.

Available in many different styles, fabrics, colors and patterns, you can easily coordinate drapery to layer with any existing window treatments or simply use panels only

Drapes and curtains are the most decorative window treatment and the terms are often used interchangeably as full length panels of material. Drapes add extreme personality to a space, transforming a room in the form of breezy sheers or lush velvet. While decorative, they also filter or block light and may be lined for thermal insulation.

Hung high near the ceiling and draped near the outer edges of a window, drapes can make both the room and the window feel larger.

Drapes become a perfect companion when paired with another window treatment such as a timeless wood blind, an insulating cellular shade, or a rustic woven wood shade. Drapes are the dessert of window treatments!

• Mini Blinds

If you’re looking for the lowest cost option in window treatments, mini blinds are your answer! They are a basic blind that does the trick of providing privacy and controlling the light with a simple twist of the wand.

Mini blinds are available in an array of colors, different materials (aluminum and vinyl) as well as different thicknesses to solve all your light issues. Mini blinds offer minimal treatment. They can also be painted. These rainbow mini blinds are pretty cool.

The DIY is very simple. Take down the blind and clean it really well. When it is thoroughly dry, spray with a primer and then when that’s dry, spray paint it with the color of your choice. If you opt for the rainbow blinds, each slat will have to be painted individually. I’d recommend a foam brush and a good quality paint.

• Outdoor shades

Outdoor shades are innovative, lightweight and just shout easy living. Made from a solar screen material, outdoor shades block the heat, glare and damaging rays. The airy fabric lets the wind move through for a cool breeze, yet protects and offers privacy.

If you live in a climate with extreme sun, outdoor shades can be mounted to the outside of the house to prevent the sun from even reaching your windows and heating the place up like an oven. Outdoor shades are de rigueur (means you gotta have them) for patios, porches, and other outdoor spaces for ultimate outdoor living and entertaining.

• Panel track blinds

Panel track blinds are made out of a series of fabric panels that slide back and forth to give you optimal light control and privacy. Sometimes called sliding window panels. Offer a simple, versatile and stylish solution for sliding doors or picture windows.

These blinds are a modern alternative to vertical blinds for covering large windows or sliding glass doors.

Panel track blinds are the best thing to happen to sliding glass doors and large picture windows since vinyl vertical blinds! You can’t beat these when covering a large space. A cross between drapery and vertical blinds, a series of panels slide open and closed on a track system. So cool.

When mounted to the ceiling, panel track blinds can also be used as a room divider. The variety of materials offered range from basic vinyl to solar screens to natural woven woods. Once your sliding glass doors are outfitted with smashing fabric panels, you will become a panel fan.

• Pleated shades

Pleated shades are made from a single piece of fabric with pleats that collapse and stack neatly as you raise the shade. This slat-like effect gives your home a casual, semi-sheer look that allows a considerable amount of light to filter through the window.

A more affordable alternative to cellular shades are pleated shades which are actually constructed with crisp pleats cascading down your window. The insulation benefits don’t match a cellular shade but the look is quite similar. Many people object to the light that comes through the holes made by the cords as the shade is lowered. However, an option is now available to decrease those unsightly slivers of light, the “no holes pleated shade.” You don’t need an iron to keep those pleats sharp!

• Roller shades

Roller shades are one of the most affordable options when it comes to covering your windows. These shades roll up neatly onto a tube, making them appear minimal and discreet when raised. With blackout and light-filtering options, you can choose the amount of light control that you wish for any given room.

Roller shades, also called roll up shades or roller blinds, are an easy and economical way to add color, style and texture to any decor. Constructed with modern fabrics and offer simple functionality for ease of use.

The idea of a roller shade is pretty simple. When lowered, the shade hangs flat near the window pane and when raised, it rolls up onto a cylindrical rod. Lots of fabrics are a plus here: blackout material, sheer fabric, and linen and a palette of patterns. Technology today even allows you to print your own images, photos, art or design on a roller shade.

A cordless lift option creates an additional clean look. Roller shades are a straightforward, budget friendly window treatment option.

• Roman shades

Roman shades consist of one continuous piece of fabric, featuring horizontal folds down the length of the shade. These folds lay flat against the window when down but fold up nicely when raised, combining the soft look of fabric drapery with the functionality of a shade.

Provide privacy, light control, and offers insulating qualities; can be made in any fabric. Roman shades are usually opened with a cord mechanism, allowing the user to adjust the height of the covered area. Many different kinds of materials, from wood to fabric, can be used to create Roman shades, as well as natural materials such as bamboo.

Roman shades give the rich impression of drapery with the functionality of a shade that opens and closes easily. When closed, they hang like a panel, like a good solider and when raised, they fold up and look similar to a valance, like a cloud.

Roman Shades are available in so many fabrics, creating a burst of color or texture in your room. Different styles fit seamlessly into décor styles such as traditional, family-friendly, and even contemporary. And don’t think form wins over function. With roman shades, there are options galore to choose from like top down, bottom up or cordless or thermal liners. Romans are happy to roam on all of your windows.

• Sheer Curtains (Net Curtains)

A sheer or net curtain is one that is made from translucent (sheer) fabric. The sheerness of a fabric is expressed in 3 main characteristics (extremely rare, very thin, barely visible). The materials which can be made translucent include gossamer, silk, rayon or nylon.

Sheer fabric comes in a wide variety of colors, but for curtains white and shades of white, such as cream, winter white, eggshell, and ivory are popular. They are sometimes referred to as privacy curtains; during the day they allow you to see from the inside out whilst preventing people outside from seeing directly into the space.

• Sheer shades

Sheer shades are an elegant window covering. These popular window treatments feature two sheer fabric facings over soft fabric vanes.

When vanes are open, diffused light is let inside, and your view to the outside is preserved. When closed, however, room-darkening styles of sheer shades will completely block out light.

Sheer shades are the best 2 for 1 window treatment on the market. You get the look of a fabric shade with the functionality of a blind. They are light and airy and elegant. When the shades are closed, the vanes can be tilted open for a filtered view or completely closed for privacy.

Of course, sheer shades can be raised for a full view of your beautiful garden or kid’s playground or rambunctious pets. Beautiful in living and dining rooms, your bedroom is just as important, as sheer shades in a room-darkening fabric guarantee you the sleep you deserve.

• Shoji Panels

Used in Japanese decorating. Can be used as room dividers, doors and window coverings. These screens are made of wood or bamboo with a translucent rice paper, which is porous and easily allows light into the room.

It can be also used as folding screen (free- standing furniture). It consists of several frames or panels, which are often connected by hinges or by other means. It can be made in a variety of designs and with different kinds of materials.

• Shutters

Shutters are a classic window treatment choice, adding architectural design directly to your windows. Shutters are a great value when you consider they actually add value to your home.

Louvered or fixed slats. Attached with hinges so they can be opened and shut. Made of wood or plastic. Shutters may be employed for a variety of reasons, including controlling the amount of sunlight that enters a room, to provide privacy, security, to protect against weather or unwanted intrusion or damage and to enhance the aesthetics of a building. The term window shutter includes both interior shutters, used on the inside of a house or building, and exterior shutters, used on the outside of a structure.

The elegant design of shutters looks attractive from both the inside and the outside.

Shutters are dynamic as an architectural statement and are not only functional and beautiful window treatments, but they can also add value to your home.

I don’t think a simple shutter would be too difficult to make, so I found a bare bones visual tutorial in case anyone wants to try it:

Shutters help to control incoming light, offer privacy when closed and help to insulate against heat, cold, and sound. Shutters add timeless, traditional sophistication to any room. Shutters are so impressive; they make me feel like the Queen of England in my country manor or a totally hopeless romantic in my beach cottage.

• Solar shades

Solar shades are also known as “window sunglasses” for their opaque design that allows you to preserve your outside view while also providing considerable light control. Available in openness factors ranging from 3- to 14-percent, you will want to choose a higher openness to let in more light and preserve your view.

Solar shades are really just a roller shade made with a screen material. If you have a stellar view or just want to bring the outdoors and light into your house, but you need to cut the glare and control the UV rays that stream in from your windows, solar shades do the trick. They do a fine job of filtering the sun, yet your view to the outside is preserved.

Of course, the huge plus is the energy efficiency as we all want to save the resources of our planet while lowering our personal energy bills. Solar shades are another “on trend” window treatment in our light obsessed world.

• Wood blinds

Wood blinds are a classic choice for windows and outlast trends or styles. Made of real wood, using various grains and stains, wood blinds remain durable through the years. The warm look of wood blinds pairs well with other wood furniture, flooring and trim.

I initially think of wood blinds in a den or library, but really, they’re at home in most rooms. Wood blinds are simply natural wood slats that are either painted or stained. They are a classic treatment, complementing many decorative styles and their simple construction makes them easy to operate. Many finishes are available ranging from light pine to bamboo to richly stained ebony. Different slat sizes are offered depending on the degree of control you’d like with regards to privacy and light control. For a stylish look, layer wood blinds with drapery or top with a valance.

• Faux wood blinds

Faux wood blinds have the same look as real wood, but are more affordable window treatments because they’re made out of PVC, vinyl or composite wood material. Faux wood blinds are also moisture resistant, making them a great choice for kitchens and bathrooms where real wood would otherwise warp and crack.

For the best value and for an uncomplicated look, faux wood blinds are a good first choice. Why? Here are some of my favorite words: affordable, efficient, attractive, and easy maintenance. That means no fading, or fraying and just a quick swipe now and then.

Faux wood blinds look and feel like wood blinds, but are less expensive and more durable. Since these blinds won’t warp or fade, they are the best option for humid climates or high moisture rooms such as bathrooms and kitchens.

• Venetian Blinds

Made of wood, metal or plastic. They are suspended by strips of cloth called tapes, or by cords, by which all slats in unison can be rotated through nearly 180 degrees. The slats can be rotated such way that they overlap with one side facing inward and then in the opposite direction such way that they overlap with the other side facing inward.

Between those extremes, various degrees of separation may be effected between the slats by varying the rotation. Slat width can be between 16 and 120 mm, with 25 mm being a common width.

• Vertical Blinds

Unlike horizontal blinds, vertical blinds are less likely to collect dust because they stand vertically. Since they draw to the side rather than lifting and lowering, they operate better on doors and windows that also slide from side to side. Generally they require less muscle strength, and are faster to operate. Are an excellent solution for covering windows that are extremely wide and for patio doors as well.

 

 

Fabric blinds are noise reducing and will insulate from the heat of the sun and the chill of the wind. Vertical blinds are available in flat plastic (PVC), fabric, embossed PVC, faux wood materials, metal, wood and also S-curved slats. Vertical blinds are also used for door ways in public spaces in order to keep the warmth inside the room and/or in warmer climates in order to discourage flies and some other insects from entering the building

• Woven wood shades

Woven wood shades, often called bamboo shades or matchstick shades, offer an exotic, natural look and are a great way to add textured, casual good look to almost any decor. Woven wood shades offer complex textures, exotic reeds, grasses, woods, and sophisticated natural colors.

Window treatment manufacturers make woven wood shades out of a variety of materials, including grasses, reeds and bamboo. You may add liners to increase privacy or include fabric trim to further customize the woven wood shade to your room.

Woven wood shades run the gamut from casual and rustic to tailored and elegant. Made out of renewable materials such as bamboo, reeds, or grasses, they are an environmentally responsible selection. Woven wood shades bring wonderful texture into a room and are effortlessly chic.

Other considerations:

• Kitchen window ideas:

The kitchen is your hub, your ground zero. We all have to eat, and let’s face it, as much as you may plan for guests and kids to gather in another part of your home, they come find you in the kitchen, because that’s where all the fun happens. It’s also the room where the temperature is up and down and experiments happen more often than not (I think of mine as more of a lab).

Since there is high moisture and potential spillage in the kitchen, faux wood blinds are a great choice since they will not warp or fade. They are natural ventilators and are durable even for the rowdiest of chefs. They also clean easily, to boot.

If you’ll be covering windows above sinks and stoves, consider a cordless shade in the kitchen. Long winding cords getting stuck in the disposal or singed off into your soup are no bueno. If your kitchen faces out on the street, you might like shutters since they give great curb appeal. Shutters are naturally cordless, too.

• Dining Room Window Ideas 

This is where you celebrate the best things, either your nightly family ritual, or your big feast that comes a few times a year. If you’re going formal, think about tall drapes because you can do a floor-to-ceiling effect where you’ll bring a feeling of height and importance. It’s dramatic but still inviting.

If you’re going more laid-back, roman or roller shades will keep the space warm and private with a soft, homey feel. Cellular or pleated shades are a great pick for anyone in between who uses the dining room for all celebrations, big or small.

• Living Room Window Ideas 

In here, you’ll be making a statement about your home, entertaining, and protecting large furniture that you don’t want to fade. Solar or cellular shades are the great protectors from direct sunlight, and you can pick how much light you want coming in while still preserving your view outside.

On stark bay windows, roman shades are soft and elegant. On tall windows, or ones you want to seem tall, pick any shade and then overlay long drapes to really give reach and a finished look. Add a valance and you’ll really have a wow window.

Think outside the box in this room—make it a signature room with color, bold patterns and mix and match fabrics. It’s your living room—make it feel like you want to actually live in it!

• Bedroom Window Ideas 

Your bedroom is your sanctuary where you wake up and wind down every day. Bar none, your first thought should be privacy, and how much of it you want.

Blackout shades are great for pure darkness, especially if you don’t rise and set with the sun. If you are not a vampire and would like a little light, go with day/night shades that give you the best of both worlds—room darkening on one end and light-filtering on the other. These shades are way amazing and some of us think this is a secret blind, for the underworld.

Cellular shades are naturally calming with their soft diffusion of light and their fabric touch. They insulate during any season, and they come in patterns stimulating enough to wake up to, but still serene enough to fall asleep to. To keep it serene in this room, add motorization—your shades will practically operate on their own. In the end, a blind or shade that makes the ambiance feel warm to you is your best bet in the bedroom.

Wow! Check out these City Scape Black Out Blinds!

These are the perforated cityscape roll-up window blinds created by Ukraine based HoleRoll. They look like nighttime cityscapes when rolled down, look like whatever is outside your window when rolled up.

Their prices start at around $152 per shade, which is way out of my league, but I thought it might be fun and interesting to try to make them. I went on an exhaustive search for a DIY and came up with nothing. So…

How hard can it be? Start with some great roll up shades. Cover the front with black fabric, paper, or paint. Alternatively, buy some black out shades that are already black. And then cut them yourself. A night sky looks fairly simple and might be a good place to start. And then, be brave and get creative!  Here’s a city scape image to get started with. Don’t forget to add stars… and maybe a crescent moon!

And if you need even more ideas. Black out shades are not the only things that can be super cool when painted black, back lit, with tiny holes punched in.

So, there you have it! Everything you ever wanted to know about window treatments and a little bit more!

Sources:

• Angie’s List
• Medium
• Blinds Galore
• Home Talk
• eHow

Time spent outdoors is always time well spent, but when its a well designed space, it’s even better.

What is an outdoor living area? It isn’t just a patio and table anymore. Not just some plants on a deck. Today, the exterior of a home is literally turned inside out in order to create the feel of an indoor area. But how can you make the outside feel more cozy and inviting?

Creating an Outdoor Room

Whether you have a big backyard or a tiny patio, the key to designing for outdoor living is implementing your plan in steps, says Elyse Santoro, a Miami-based interior designer/decorator. “It doesn’t have to happen all at once, and it doesn’t have to be overwhelming or cost a fortune.”

• Where to Put Your Outdoor Room

First, go inside your house and check out the views looking out. Placing the room in a good relationship to the house helps give the feeling that your outdoor room is “an extension of your home,” Santoro says. “Make sure… you have easy access to get there,” she says, whether or not it’s physically connected to the house.

An outdoor room can include anything from an attached, screened-in porch to a gazebo to a landscaped area with a bench. If it’s an independent area, such as a gazebo, create a passageway with foliage or hardscaping to visually connect it to the house. “You want to erase the fact that you’ve gone outside,” says Atlanta-based landscape designer Patricia Thernell. She advises using the same flooring material outside as inside, or using plants to frame the doorway to your outdoor room.

• Defining Your Outdoor Space

“The best way to define an outdoor room is by the activity that will take place in it,” says Mary Donovan, an interior and landscape designer in Atlanta. Donovan interviews homeowners on what they plan to do in their outdoor spaces. Often the answer includes several purposes such as entertaining, family dining, playing games and reading. Figure out if you need one large space or several smaller rooms, each with its own purpose.

Multiple outdoor rooms don’t necessarily require acres of land, Donovan says. Postage-stamp sized front lawns and narrow side yards can be landscaped to be rooms in themselves and not just passageways. “It can be a shady quiet, meandering space with hydrangeas, hostas, moss and a dripping wall fountain, and other plants trained to grow vertically up against the house or on a lattice,” Donovan says.

An outdoor room has to be functional, but it also has to be engaging or you’ll never use it. Santoro asks clients to think about places they’ve traveled to that they absolutely love. “If they say they love Tuscany or the vineyards in northern California, I ask them to remember what it felt like there and to create their outdoor space with elements of that place.”

So, it all begins with the initial design. Do you want a pleasant patio, a quaint courtyard, a stylish gazebo, or a country-style porch? Next, try to harmonize with the backyard. Most of the time, you’ll want every area of the exterior to be a room unto itself, each with its own function and purpose while still creating a cohesive style.

The Floor Plan

You want to think of your backyard as a part of the house, which means it should come with its own logical layout. First off, if you don’t have them already, patios and decks are the most common exterior installations for homeowners because you have to have some kind of focal point to work around. But even when you have a central location, you need to organize and compartmentalize the space.

Here are some basic “rooms” to consider when planning your outdoor space:

• Kitchen

Cooking outside is a summer tradition, buy why limit it to grilling. Outdoor kitchens have become a popular renovation for any chef who wants to go beyond hot dogs and hamburgers.

If you have the a nice big budget, you could add some counter space and cabinets. Install an oven, a range, a wet-bar, or a sink. Of course, make sure these items are made out of the appropriate weather-resistant materials, such as sealed concrete and stainless steel.

Even on a smaller budget, a cozy cooking area is possible. Here are some creative ideas using brick, repurposed tables and cabinets, and what’s that? A volkswagon bug?

• Dining Room

After cooking outside, you’ll probably want to eat out there as well. This delightful patio in England designed by Cool Gardens Landscaping Ltd. is the perfect spot for afternoon tea. It features a towering hedge that serves as an organic art gallery wall complete with an outdoor TV screen and audio system.

Super cool huh?

I found a bunch of other equally cool ideas for dining areas outside. They range from the super simple to the elaborately luxurious. Here’s a gallery of pics to drool over and get ideas from:

Patio furniture is crucial. Tables, chairs, and umbrellas are important, but you may also want to think about other decorative touches such as gliders, porch swings, or a screened-in porch that keeps out the bugs.

• Family Room

Once you’ve eaten, it may be time to adjourn to a common room. Therefore it’s a good idea to have a relaxing retreat, a place to entertain.

Add a cozy outdoor fireplace for those chilly nights. Or, if you have the budget, a hot tub and a pool is a great addition: they’re fun, they’re attractive, and they add value to the home.

More cool ideas:

Oh, and here is something fun!

A trampoline isn’t just for kids in this backyard. A cushioned bumper and collection of throw pillows create a great space for lounging.

• Water Features

Landscape designers, interior decorators and architects all agree: Water is one of the most important elements in an outdoor room. The sound of water really creates a serene setting.

Even if you’re creating a room for entertaining and dining rather than meditating, it’s still nice to hear the splash when you’re sitting around the table. But you don’t have to spring for a pond or waterfall. A container water garden or a tabletop fountain works perfectly.

I found this great little tutorial for how to create a bubble fountain. It looks pretty easy, the biggest expense is the pump. I didn’t price them, so I don’t know how expensive they are.

How to Make a Bubble Fountain

Tools and materials needed:

• spade
• level
• bubble fountain kit
• decorative garden pot
• silicone sealant
• small pump with flow adjuster
• gravel

STEP 1 – Prepare the Site

First, hire a qualified electrician to install an electricity supply and an outdoor outlet to an easily concealed location close to the fountain. Then dig a hole larger than the reservoir.

Remove any sharp stones from the hole and pack damp sand around the edges, sides and base. Place the reservoir in the hole, and use a spirit level to check that it is level in all directions.

Pack more sand around the reservoir, as necessary, and check that it is level again. It is essential that your fountain is horizontal to prevent water from draining out, and to ensure that the pot on top will be stable.

STEP 2 – Place the Pump

When level, place the pump in the reservoir. You may need to fit an extension pipe onto the pump to reach through the hole in the base of the decorative pot. Put the lid on the reservoir, and over the pipe from the pump.

Place the decorative pot on the reservoir lid, making sure that the pump pipe passes through the drainage hole in the bottom. Seal the pump pipe in place with silicone sealant, and leave to dry and harden for 24 hours.

STEP 4 – Attach Flow Adjuster and Fill Fountain

Attach a long section of pipe to the water flow adjuster. Then attach this to the pump pipe in the base of the pot. Trim the water delivery pipe so it reaches just below the rim of the decorative pot.

Use a watering can or hose to fill the reservoir through the holes in the lid, and fill up the decorative pot to just below the delivery pipe.

STEP 5 – Protect the Cord

The electrical cord must be protected by special tubing, which an electrician can advise you about. Make sure that all electrical connections in the garden are fitted with a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).

STEP 6 – Disguise Reservoir and Soften With Plants

Plug in the pump and check that it pushes the water over the top of the pot, and adjust the flow as necessary. Disguise the reservoir with pebbles and gravel, leaving a gap to allow you to fill it up; you need to do this once a week in summer.

Plant up around your pool, leaving a margin between your planting and the reservoir, to avoid dislodging it. Plants from the Mediterranean, such as euphorbias, lavender and rock roses make great companions for an urn. If you prefer a more traditional look, try roses, honeysuckle and daisies.

Here is a great collection of bubbling fountains to get your creative juices flowing. As you can see, the fountain does not have to be buried in the soil to be super cool and beautiful.

• Fireplaces

A cozy fire or fireplace is becoming a staple for outdoor rooms, because a hearth can extend the season of your outdoor room by several months.

Fire pits come in many shapes and sizes. They can be a permanent structure or a simple barrel that can be moved around the patio. Find the design that’s right for your backyard.

Fire pits are not hard to build. They do, however, require a bit of elbow grease and hard work. They can be created with concrete culvert spacers — aka doughnuts — intended to fill culvert gaps in city sewer systems, fire brick, metal containers buried in the soil or surrounded by brick or stone.

I found a couple of simple visual tutorials. Here they are:

Firepits can also be created from a variety of materials:

But wait, those look expensive and/or difficult. I want something super easy and inexpensive. So I went on another search and found these two visual tutorials. One uses sterno, the other is a variation of an oil lamp. Easy peasy.

Since flooring defines a space, put down some kind of hardscaping, whether it’s a deck or a stone floor or a concrete slab. If your outdoor room has a floor of grass, “you’ll never go out there,” says Santoro. “If there’s no floor it doesn’t feel like a room.

• Walkways and paths

Garden paths come in many styles, and it is up to you to determine not only which style fits your garden best, but which you can commit yourself to creating and maintaining.

Some take much more time, effort, and expense than others. For example, gravel and mulch paths are inexpensive, but stone and brick are more durable. Stepping stones add charm, while mosaics add elegance and beauty but are incredibly time-consuming.

Pea gravel is fairly inexpensive, and in my area there is an abundance of limestone rock that can be scavenged and scrounged. Also you might check with companies that make grave stones to see if they have a supply of broken or unusable gravestones. Other possibilities include beer bottles embedded in sand, bottoms up.

Outdoor Flooring Buyer’s Guide

What’s the best material to build your driveway, deck or patio? Here’s a look at five outdoor flooring choices and the cost, pros and cons, and ideal locations for each.

From brick to cedar decking to concrete pavers, outdoor flooring options can quickly get complicated, but when you consider the pros and cons of each, it’s simple to choose a type of flooring and style that fits your space and your budget.

The following info is from design experts Jeff Wilson, a home improvement expert who has hosted several shows for HGTV and DIY Network, and Morgan Grimball, ASLA, a landscape architect in Columbia, SC.

Natural stone

Pros and cons: Stone can be expensive to truck in and installation is labor-intensive. Local stone from your region (for example, fieldstone in the south or slate in the northeast) costs less and is more eco-friendly. Once installed, natural stone is extremely durable and almost maintenance-free.

• Cost: Varies by type of stone and region, but around $25-35 per square foot.
• Ideal location: Patios, pool decks, front porches, walkways, driveway accents

Design ideas: Use stones with an irregular shape to create a meandering mosaic pathway; for a more uniform appearance, select cut modular stones. Natural stones have beautiful color variations from gray to red to blue, which can form part of the pattern and overall design of your outdoor space.

Concrete

Pros and cons: A basic slab of concrete is inexpensive, low-maintenance and a good long-term option, though cracking is difficult to repair. Concrete pavers are easier to repair; simply pull up the damaged section and replace.

• Cost: $4-6 per square foot for basic concrete; $7-8 per square foot for pavers; $12 per square foot for stamped or acid-etched concrete
• Ideal location: Patios, driveways, pool area, garden paths, front porches

Design ideas: Coloring and stamping options make concrete resemble stone, bricks, or other higher-end materials. Concrete pavers are durable, low-maintenance, and come in a wide variety of designs from brick to flagstone.

Wood

Pros and cons: Wood decking is one of the simplest DIY projects, which lowers the cost substantially, but wood requires cleaning and sealing every one to two years.

• Cost: Around $8-10 per square foot for the least-expensive treated lumber; $18-20 per square foot for higher-end wood; $20-25 per square foot for inexpensive treated lumber, supports and railings. Composite decking runs about $35 per square foot.
• Ideal location: Ground level or raised decks, pool decks

Design ideas: Using local hardwood in deck building is greener and can be less expensive, since the wood doesn’t have to be trucked in. If your ground is sloped, consider building the deck in levels to follow the slope.

Brick

Pros and cons: Brick gives off a beautiful old-world look and is low-maintenance and relatively slip-resistant, but ground shifts over time can make a brick pathway or patio difficult to shovel snow because of the irregular surface.

• Cost: Approximately $15 per square foot, including the base
• Ideal location: Patios, garden paths or walkways, pool decks or fountains, front porches, driveways

Design ideas: Brick can be installed in a number of patterns, such as basketweave, herringbone and circular. Encouraging moss to grow between brick pavers fills in the cracks and helps prevent weeds, but can be slippery when wet.

Tile

Pros and cons: Ceramic tile installed outdoors must be highly slip-resistant and able to withstand freeze-thaw cycles. Look for tile specifically formulated for the outdoors, which is dense with low absorption ratings. Tile usually requires a sealant to protect the grout from cracking.

• Cost: $12-20 per square foot
• Ideal location: Front porches, patios, garden stepping stones, pool decks

Design ideas: Use accent tiles to create a border; lay contrasting tiles in a diamond pattern; create a pathway within a large patio by laying a contrasting color in a walkway formation; use smaller tiles in a mosaic pattern as a focal point.

• Note:

All costs for all materials are estimates that include labor and installation. Prices may vary by region, and installing materials yourself will cost substantially less in most cases.

But Wait There’s More!

And if you don’t want to go for something permanent, here is a wonderful and luxuriously cool temporary outdoor room:

Sources:

• HGTV 
• DIY Network
• Today’s Creative Life